Snowboard self waxing

OUR DIY-GUIDE TO WAXING YOURSELF

TESTED AND APPROVED BY EERO ETTALA

THE RIGHT PLACE TO WAX A SNOWBOARD

PREPARATION FOR SNOWBOARD WAXING

Where wood is chopped, splinters must fall. In this case, it's not just a saying, but meant quite literally. Therefore, choose a place like a garage or basement to wax your board. If the weather is not too cold, you can also do it on the balcony or terrace. In a pinch, your flatmate's room with a tilted window will do, of course.

IMPORTANT: Your board should be at room temperature, as this makes it much easier to process the board!

THE RIGHT BASE FOR SNOWBOARD WAXING

PREPARATION FOR SNOWBOARD WAXING

To really get started, you need a solid base. The best is a stable table over which you can throw a large cloth or tablecloth. Of course you can also use an old bed sheet. There are no limits to your creativity. Then stretch the board grips over the sheet on the table.

IMPORTANT: The board must be stable on the board grips!

REMOVE THE OLD WAX

PREPARATION FOR SNOWBOARD WAXING

Now it's finally time to start scrubbing. You should remove old wax residues completely from your board. Your helpers here are a hard brush and a wax remover, which you can rub in with a cloth or an old T-shirt. Start with the wax remover and cloth, then go over it with the hard brush.

REMOVE LARGE SCRATCHES

PREPARATION FOR SNOWBOARD WAXING

After your board is waxfree, use a repair candle to repair the large scratches. You simply light the stick and let it slowly drip onto the areas to be repaired.

IMPORTANT: The material from the candle is very hot and only a little of it is needed for scratches. The applied material should harden for 20 minutes. Then remove the excess material with a sharp plexiglass blade. To do this, run the plexiglass blade over the repaired area until an even surface is created.

EDGE GRINDING

PRELIMINARY WORK FOR SNOWBOARD WAXING

Before grinding the edges, smoothen them first with a grindstone to remove rust and unevenness. To do this, you go over the edges with the stone lying flat ion the board. The advantage of this is that you don't get stuck when "back-sanding".

The next step is to sand the edges themselves. Sand the edge at the desired angle (88 degrees is the standard angle). Apply even pressure from the tip of the board to the tail. This step is also called "sanding behind". Repeat the process until the edges are sharp from front to back.

IMPORTANT: When sanding edges, always "back sand", otherwise you can damage your edges. This means that you should only ever sand from the nose to the tail.

Refinishing is then done with the whetstone again. To do this, round off the corners of your nose and tail slightly to avoid jamming when shredding.

SNOWBOARD WAXING

VIDEO ADVICE WITH EERO ETTALA

You've done it, the preparatory work is over and we're now devoting ourselves entirely to waxing the board. So that you don't get lost in the wax jungle and can't see your snowboard for all the wax, here are a few helpful tips from us.

There are different waxes for different temperatures and needs. For starters, we recommend the Dakine Indy Hot Wax All Temp. This wax is a super all-rounder and suitable for all types of snow and temperatures. Click here for our full range of hot waxes if you are looking for a hot wax tailored to your needs.

The most important tool next to the right wax is the waxing iron.

In our video, Eero Eetala, our team rider, shows you exactly how to apply the wax!

REMOVING EXCESS WAX FROM THE BOARD

FINISHING WORK FOR SNOWBOARD WAXING

After waxing, use the plexiglass blade. The plexiglass blade helps you to remove the unabsorbed wax from the board. Don't be shy and scrape off all the excess base here! Your board has already taken what it needs. Don't forget to remove excess wax from the edges too with the corner of the plexiglass blade.

Eero shows you this part in detail in the video, so that you can do it perfectly.

BRUSH AND POLISH AGAIN

REWORKING THE SNOWBOARD WAX

You've almost done it! Now comes the final polish. Grab your hard brush once more and run it over your board from nose to tail with not too much pressure. Yes, you heard me right! The hard brush from the beginning is now used again and you should brush your board again. The difference is that now you only brush your board with light to moderate pressure. This will give you a perfect ride and your board will glide through the powder. After several repetitions, you can polish your board with a cloth and you're done!

YOUR SHOPPING LIST

Board Grip
Wax Remover
Hard Brush
Repair Candle (only for big scratches)
Plexiglas Blade
Sanding Stone (the sanding stone is not a must-have, but it makes sanding edges easier)
Edge Sander
Hot Wax
Wax Iron

SNOWBOARD WAX SET

OUR TIP

You don't want to buy all products separately? No problem, we have prepared something for you. Our snowboard wax set from TOKO includes everything you need and even comes with a polishing cloth on top!

Wax Remover
Nylon Brush
Repair Candle
2 different hot Waxes
Wax Iron
Plexiglas Blade
Polishing Cloth
Wax Instructions

UNIVERSAL LIQUID WAX FOR RE-WAXING

OUR TIP FOR ON THE GO

When you're on the road or on holiday, cold wax is ideal for in-between applications when you're in a hurry. Please be aware that this is only a supplement to hot waxing and not a substitute.

ANY QUESTIONS?

FAQ

Do I have to wax my snowboard right after I buy it?

We do recommend that you wax your board directly after buying it. Most manufacturers only put a little wax or protection on it, which is usually gone after the first run. Our recommendation - wax once, have fun longer!

When do I have to wax my snowboard?

Does your board shows white lines and spots on the base? Then it's time to give your board a new „coat of paint“. At the very latest, you'll notice it on the slopes when your board no longer slides like it usually does.

How often do I have to wax my snowboard?

This depends entirely on the condition of your base and the performance of your snowboard. If your board has white lines and spots, you should wax. If the performance on the slope leaves something to be desired and you ride slower than normal, then you should also wax.
A small point of reference - if you jib a lot and ride a lot of rails, you need to reach for the iron more often than the classic piste carver, as the wax wears off more quickly when jibbing and through rail contact.

How long does it take to wax my snowboard myself?

In the beginning, snowboard waxing takes a little longer, but normally not longer than an hour. Once you've had practice, you'll be able to do it much faster.

Which wax should I use on my snowboard?

It all depends on the temperatures and the snow of your terrain. For most cases you are well equipped with the Dakine Indy Hot Wax All Temp. There is always a temperature indicator on the wax packaging as a guide to help you choose the right product.

Can I wax my snowboard with a normal iron?

Please do not use a normal iron, even if it is tempting! With a normal iron, you can't regulate the temperature finely enough, so your board can quickly get burn marks. The holes for steam are also very damaging for your board, as it does not have a continuously smooth surface due to the holes and in worst case, steam or water comes out which is not good for your snowboard.

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